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Back again, finished at 945pm today haha.

After I got the gun I took apart the crossmember

005.JPG

Here it is bare, the red circles are what I was referring to 'wings' for the mounts as opposed to a more straight looking S13 crossmember (in my quick google search opinion, will do more now) for reference if anyone was wondering

Also drew in white what I see the on the member, look for yourself on the right haha

 

I will be using the stock rear knuckles forever, but the front knuckles for now and when the cars on the road, and get the DW ones probably later on when I can spare that much for them and the bent castor rods to clear. I have GK Lock spacers and brought the adj. rack ends out 30mm so the lock will be pretty hectic at first anyway, may even have to wind down the rack ends til nothing fouls if it even does :thumbsup:

002.JPG

Will bring these home tomorrow to separate from the hubs then dip the knuckles and LCA's in my dads 1985 (from 1985 ahaha) red paint, then put back in the inner front LCA's bushes, and they will be awaiting my purchase of outer ball joints are these are fked. Knuckles will have added to them after the paint dries, the shiny Hardrace 5 stud hubs (:

 

Brought home the steering rack and mounts today so that I can clean up the rack and put on my rack and tie rod ends.

Will probably paint on the same red to the subframe but top it off with clear coat as it won't look pretty on a bigger item.

 

Here is the passenger quarter glass.

012.JPG

Took me a whole hour to cut the seal.. I sharpened a trowel on a grinder and scooped it along, very slowly pushing so hard aha, very strong seal

Had it braced with thread tape, and there is also clips along the way -.- I just plowed through them as it's nowhere near easy enough to stop cutting at the right point and go around them. Plus if I use a window sealant as proved they won't go anywhere. They are for street use though, stored for now. Brang passenger home to make a ally and persplex replica, gonna look tough.

 

Here (sorry it was dark and flash is pathetic) you can see the rear jack stands are pretty far forward, the only place for them that isn't the subframe because I was removing it.

010.JPG

First bolt came very easily as i soaked them in inox having had my share of suspension work on the skyline, knowing the best approach is to lube, walk away for 15 mins then use the proper tools only hahaha.

Then the second bolt I kicked the spanner and still wouldn't go, but the car tilted ass-down like almost a metre and a shit my pants pushing the front down.

 

So I got all the random heavy shit I seen to plant into the engine bay

011.JPG

Worked a treat then I appled a "torque bar" but it just bent the shit out of the spanner even though it was blunt force not gradual :\

It does have the right curve to give great ring-end access but it wasn't intentional hahha. I figured the must have been rattle-gun ed up so I called up my dad to ask when he was coming home, and he said 10 minutes so he came by the yard and lent me his gun.

They're a godsend. Rattled for a good second or two before they came off so they were on harrd. I took the opportunity as I said first in this update to disassemble the crossmember as they were sure to be done the same. They were, and the reason I figured before I knew was that there was a good (for the time) stereo in there [came with like din dj equaliser thing, crossovers in doors etc], fmic brackets like 5mm thick but bent perfectly for the angle so I assumed a shop has done that not garage tools. Mod plate is 2005 so that all points to the car being loved at that time and mods done by shops.

 

I still have the gun so tomorrow morning i will rattle off everything on the subframe that's now in the same place as the crossmember then pass dad back the tools. On another note, someone used the paint the I was planning to use on the fuse box covers haha. Went for the can after I masked them all off too... So I sprayed them in primer and I'm going to paint-pen on some camo graphics then use mums labeller to makes labels to stick on. Should look dope :thumbsup:

 

Pretty pumped with the shell being liftable myself front and rear now, still got some brackets and shit to strip off and seal various holes I won't be using, maybe when I'm borrowing my cousins mig. It's currently on 4 stands at the moment and thinking about arc welding up a table like thing to hold the shell, without running gear and no harm in using it with the gear for under-car maintenance later too (: Will have to head to bunnings for some steel, will check in the skips near my house first thought because houses are being built.

 

So now that I've got the shell pretty sorted rollcage time is coming around pretty quick. My brothers mate has offered to do my cage if I supply the steel bars and I'll stay with him to watch and to notch tubes so he can keep pumping on the welding. In bigger news my brother and said mate have quit their jobs to work full-time (only started a week ago) painting and panel business which is soaring, they've done like 6 jobs and got at least the same lined up. Which is more than few thousand $ so I'd say they're kicking some ass. This is a side-thing to get starting money but to continue alongside; IMPORTING CAR PARTS FROM JAPAN! How lucky am I to have that brother at this time ahaha, he's keen to hit me up with some adjustable arms and high-end coilovers for cheeeap (: Hopefully they will do well. They've bought a tig and starting making their own kits to sell like under-fender braces, strut bars etc. Any suggestions/requests are welcome, even one-time things, etc. They're just keen to be in the industry and making money. Wish I was the one making money so I could give him a financial hand when he really needs it like he did for me, but he's doing good so I'm proud.

 

edit: Yeah after googling again it definitely looks like an R32 crossmember (:

Saves some selling, buying, effort and of course time

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Might be 33 yet it's not r32 as 32 has one slot each side for bolts not 2 I'll upload pics tonight for u

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Might be 33 yet it's not r32 as 32 has one slot each side for bolts not 2 I'll upload pics tonight for u

 

Yeah I was also like how the f does mine have a bridge making it two holes, but that'd be the go, cheers man.

update I got today off as well!! Paycheck next week is gonna suuuuck. But today I'll be disassembling the subframe to assess what goodies are required (:

diff has 3x2 (6) bolt shafts and code something like 005U0 no further inspection yet though

Rear cradle has no hicas stock (:

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Hey guys, got today off as well!! Quiet week says the other apprentice, got work tomorrow but still going to finish something off in the morning.

Here is the relay boxes I primered 001.JPG

 

If you remember all the leaves, sticks and filth on the inside,

Here's the photo of the 180 after I an air blasted everything with a compressor

008.JPG

 

and Here is under the car now, no signs of rust or chassis warp :naughty:

009.JPG

010.JPG

Planning to ^^ flatten ^^ out this rear boot section to the depth of the donut wheel well as that would be the maximum, but will be cool for storage.

Probably end up putting the fuel system in the ditch but eh, still cleaner

 

That mate of my brothers has locked in he will mig up the cage for me, he wanted to supply tubes as well but I can't sit there and let someone give me a cage and install it too.. He also knows 'the guy' the get it modplated along with my seats harnesses coilovers etc. Also gave me the brilliant idea of running those "rose joint dust boots" over rose jointed suspension as it really makes it look like a stock bush from first glance/police view

 

Oh god, so here the fuel cradle, the picture doesn't portray the true filth.. was so mouldy and off-milk looking uggghhhhh :puke: :puke: 012.JPG

and the poor bosch 044 in there. (Yeah he insisted on telling me only 040's fit internally and what do you know.. :hammer: )013.JPG I will be cleaning this pump up and ultilising it. I may run dual 044's from the surge tank now and get my hands on a walbro255 or something for a lifter for under $50 or $50ish. Thoughts?

 

2nd post inbound

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Here is the rear cradle bolts, subframe brackets and

017.JPG

cradle spacers I found on the car. The front 2 are missing the upper collar.. Could he not install them and give up or what haha, am I missing something about this as an advantage? The cradle bushes look pretty good. Just as I type it I realise I should have taken a photo.. I will tomorrow. But I maaay run solid bushes anyway. Still thinking on this

 

 

 

After I lugged that subframe into the site shed, was well pooped. This is what I will be taking apart tomorrow morning.

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My Somalian-looking hands today

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Pissy little rear sway bar

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My castor arms, toe arms and some s15 arms I brought down to compare, s15 is about 3/4 inch longer ):

toe arm bushes look good though.

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Old brakes and hubs (those good bushes you see if you're asking yourself why replace them? they're the s15 ones i wanted to put on)

022.JPG

 

 

 

The subframe and crossmember, front knuckles on the very right and diff.

024.JPG

 

 

 

Definately 6 bolt, the diff appears to be a locked lsd as when I spin the input shaft, both spin the same direction same speed, am I wrong?

Will be opening it up anyway to see, maybe add some more stick weld if it's welded

025.JPG

Will get myself a nice brand name 2-way from Japan hopefully if my brother does well

 

 

I cleaned the shipping container up, here's my parts (3/4 here 1/4 home being cleaned up, painted, modded etc e.g dash)

030.JPG

 

 

 

So tomorrow after I finish disassembling the suspension rear arms from the wheels (the only 12mm internal hex key I have was stolen in my r32 so I can't remove the wheels until i buy another 12mm hex socket :\) I'll post a small update

 

edit: Dad has another 12mm hex socket key he's left in the site shed for me, probably have to spend more than McDonalds meal on a 36mm socket ):

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Fu*k me a rb30 bottom end for $50, an a rb25det head for $750, thats an awesome score, will be good to see the car an engine all finished, if i kill my sr(touch wood i dont) i will build a rb30/25 setup. Best of luck bro

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Thanks a ton man that's excellent, I'm going tomorrow morning to do a little work, so I'll open them up on my phone and compare and post back. Work like find whatever else to unbolt, remove the looms completely and start chipping the sound deadener.

Funnily enough I chipped off all the (raped with cracks and was brittle as hell) vinyl on my dash ready for flocking, which I actually enjoyed haha. Must be patient I guess, so I'll probably be going the tedious chipping route for deadener opposed to dry ice, heat guns etc.

 

Fu*k me a rb30 bottom end for $50, an a rb25det head for $750, thats an awesome score, will be good to see the car an engine all finished, if i kill my sr(touch wood i dont) i will build a rb30/25 setup. Best of luck bro

 

Haha yeah I'm pretty happy with how the prices are going so far, got some more stuff this week I'll post up tomorrow probably.

Thank you man

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Small update I tried the chipping of the sound deadender today, it works for the thinner stuff on the wheel wells and boot floor but the tranny tunnel, rear seats etc I will have to employ a heat or freeze method.. Will post a proper update tomorrow..

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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pmod

 

Posted Today, 09:48 AM

Haha, yeah those EL faces aren't stock. I may have some black oem gauge faces from the various clusters I've disassembled, and *may* have a guard indicator, although I'm not too sure about that one. I'll check if I get a chance. If your gauges don't have a stock backing, then keep in mind that it's easy to destroy the gauges by removing the needles, which you'll have to do in order to install stock faces.

Man, I really need to clear out my garage. Can't walk through the one in my apartment, and my folks are tired of all the sh*t I put in theirs haha.

 

Thanks man that would be excellent, you wanna swap? Or did you mean sell me the stuff?

I just spent a long time on my desk doing it slowing and carefully and I was able to take the faces off the gauges with the needles and odo sticks still in place. Scary being on the breaking point though, hahaha

 

Nah, I run an S15 cluster, so there's no point in me swapping, ignoring the fact that I had some of those EL gauges once and found the marks were actually wrong. I located a spare fuel, temp and speedometer gauge (complete units, not just the faces - sadly no tacho in sight). Could have them for ten bucks if you like. Can post if need be (at your cost), or pickup.

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pmod

 

Posted Today, 09:48 AM

Haha, yeah those EL faces aren't stock. I may have some black oem gauge faces from the various clusters I've disassembled, and *may* have a guard indicator, although I'm not too sure about that one. I'll check if I get a chance. If your gauges don't have a stock backing, then keep in mind that it's easy to destroy the gauges by removing the needles, which you'll have to do in order to install stock faces.

Man, I really need to clear out my garage. Can't walk through the one in my apartment, and my folks are tired of all the sh*t I put in theirs haha.

 

Thanks man that would be excellent, you wanna swap? Or did you mean sell me the stuff?

I just spent a long time on my desk doing it slowing and carefully and I was able to take the faces off the gauges with the needles and odo sticks still in place. Scary being on the breaking point though, hahaha

 

Nah, I run an S15 cluster, so there's no point in me swapping, ignoring the fact that I had some of those EL gauges once and found the marks were actually wrong. I located a spare fuel, temp and speedometer gauge (complete units, not just the faces - sadly no tacho in sight). Could have them for ten bucks if you like. Can post if need be (at your cost), or pickup.

 

 

 

Thank you man it's all good I have got another cluster for $20 which I will basically reshell my older cluster into (It came with red leds and 84000 odo) as the the newer cluster has 163000

 

Would be cool to wind the odo back to 0 as I'm doing an engine rebuild

(I found how to do it muaha) Or is it common knowledge lately, lol

 

 

 

For an update today, no update will post it Friday, I worked for dad today, he offered me $20 an hour so I called up work and boss said it was quiet enough so all good.

What we were doing was digging 1m x 300 holes for the pillars, for the concrete sleepers, for the driveway - of a guys house. Hard fking work ahaaha. Going back tomorrow with him so big $$ this week (:(: Which means a tasty Sunday or two (Day off I usually work on the 180 all day)

 

The guy the driveway is for, someone here may even know - he loves racing QLD inc Lakeside Raceway etc, drives a 10k rpm 2.0 DOHC EFI Cosworth Ford Escort with Jim Berry and Motec, name is Danny something and knows a lot of people, reason I say is one of them may be you readers. His toolbox and garage I seen today are amaazing..

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Score. $20 for a cluster is a good pickup.

 

When you're reshelling it, a fun mod you can do is to cut the tracks on the unused warning lights (most S13 clusters have a few that aren't used), scrape down the coating on the copper, solder in LEDs in place of the missing light globes, solder on a suitable resistor to the positive leg of the LED, then run some wires off them for later use.

 

In the event that you need an indicator, shift light, alarm light, warning light, etc, you have several ready to go, nicely integrated with the cluster. I had one in my old S13 cluter to indicate when the boost controller was set to high boost, however with a weaker resistor or brighter LED, you could easily use one as a shift light; they basically point in your face, so there's no missing them if they're bright.

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Score. $20 for a cluster is a good pickup.

 

When you're reshelling it, a fun mod you can do is to cut the tracks on the unused warning lights (most S13 clusters have a few that aren't used), scrape down the coating on the copper, solder in LEDs in place of the missing light globes, solder on a suitable resistor to the positive leg of the LED, then run some wires off them for later use.

 

In the event that you need an indicator, shift light, alarm light, warning light, etc, you have several ready to go, nicely integrated with the cluster. I had one in my old S13 cluter to indicate when the boost controller was set to high boost, however with a weaker resistor or brighter LED, you could easily use one as a shift light; they basically point in your face, so there's no missing them if they're bright.

 

Dang man that's a tops idea..

I'm looking at the globes now and I think I could just use those globes (cut the tracks still) and solder on cables

Also in saying that LEDs need resistors? Or do they not if they are rated to 12V (or irrelevant?) Because I've just postive and grounded LEDs before and they go sweet

Or is it to dim them as cluster leds as being spastic bright would be ugly/ricey?

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A '12v LED' is really just an LED with a suitable resistor already included. You could use one with no consequence, but the range of colours and brightnesses is greater when installing your own choice of LED and resistor.

 

Also, yes you could use a relay to switch between two poitive signals and resistors, to act as illumination.

Edited by pmod
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A '12v LED' is really just an LED with a suitable resistor already included. You could use one with no consequence, but the range of colours and brightnesses is greater when installing your own choice of LED and resistor.

 

Also, yes you could use a relay to switch between two poitive signals and resistors, to act as illumination.

 

Ah ok thanks. I'll definately do that man, but using the stock globes cus I dig that colour and brightness, but what did you mean by a relay for illumination?

I have always wondered what the "illumination' port on some head units is; may be related

 

 

 

An update for the thread, I been working all day for dad, then going to my regular work as a chef at nighttimes, pretty hectic hours but getting a fat pay (:

Hence the reason for no updates for a week as I have been busy, this Sunday (tomorrow) I want to get some 180sx work done, I miss it ahaha.

 

In personal news... I'm working for dad all day on uneven rocky/muddy etc ground, and as soon as I got home yesterday; on the FRONT DOOR SILL I didn't lift my left foot enough and fked my ankle, doesn't hurt at all idly or walking, a tad when I twist it around, but FK LOADS whenever I clutch!! Nooo!!

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Sucks about ure foot,illumination on a headunit connects to the dash lights power circuits and dims the deck at night. On other decks it might brighten it. Depends on how bright or dim the daytime setting is

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Sucks about ure foot,illumination on a headunit connects to the dash lights power circuits and dims the deck at night. On other decks it might brighten it. Depends on how bright or dim the daytime setting is

 

Ahh thanks man! Makes perfect sense

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Keen to get to work on the 180 tomorrow (:

Picking up some LS Coils first thing in the morning, brand new harness piggies and brand new ls1 truck coils for the RB $120!

Hopefully make the quarter windows tomorrow night, but remove harness and bare the shell as much as possible including doing some more deadener chipping

 

Grabbing the coils now, luckily I been on fb long enoughh before I left! It's at Capalaba and about 10 mins east in a guy selling a genuine fixed back bride with s13 rails, small rips average condition, $ 1 5 0 !! :D Wiiiinnnnnnn

 

Got the stuff and it took all day ): No daylight left to work on 180, did measure up crossmember will have a google and come back, looking pretty r33. Got the coils and will be soldering on nice long cables for them tonight.

Also got the seat, herebride.PNG

Cleaning that up tonight too, will have to figure out what I will do about the rips (New fabric, stitch or leave)

 

EDIT: Crossmember's height (first photo at 20cm) is 120mm (12cm) and similar width (810mmish total) so I'm gonna lock in R33 Crossmember.

More googling reveals yay (it obviously fits in) and actually mounts engines lower which is good news for the RB30.

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Here is when I was taking off the traction arms, I needed the upper camber out of the way so I used the weight of the other side rear hub setup which worked sweet.001.JPG

 

The traction arms (nice bushes still)002.JPG

 

Just upper and lower camber/control arms, driveshaft and wheel to remove now, then seperate the hubs from the knuckles so I can clean up the rear hubs and get my 5 studs and new bearings on there.005.JPG

 

 

Got a little more stuff,011.JPG

$20 good cond. RB25 engine mounts (rubber bit)

$40 RB25 Alternator

$20 RB25 Water pump both ^ from mates low KM good cond. wrecker engine

(pump picture below)

 

012.JPG

2 red ally pulleys (Need alternator pulley still)

for $30

 

014.JPG

That $20 cluster with nice cond persplex

 

 

I've stripped the dash vinyl, here is the result

shit was like armageddon up in there

015.JPG

 

Here's some photos of measurements I took to research (haven't googled yet) of the driveshaft which came with the shell.032.JPG033.JPG

shaft itself 034.JPG

Length of driveshaft is 930mm (the shaft) and 1230mm total length (including yoke and diff linkage)

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Wow you move fast.. hope you get this done. Seems like you got a good streak at what you want, Ill be keeping an eye out for the finished product :)

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Diff linkage035.JPG036.JPG

037.JPG

One piece driveshaft :thumb:

Will sus out compatability with the diff when I go to the yard next, and then the yoke size whenever I get a gearbox. Once I know it's right I'll probably try sand blast it with the spray gun and paint nicely, new nuts etc.

 

Here's a cell my cousin was going to use for his bagged hilux project but that was stolen from him too!

Might text him and see if he wants to sell this to me

Looks 40L and has 4 x AN ports, foam, level sender and floater thing and lockable lid

Does it seem a good setup? Or should I just go ebay or get my brother to tig me one up

042.JPG

 

 

Here's the LS coils, the fool cut the cables so short and from experience (didn't bother trying) that the wire stripper doesn't fit onto the cables this close to something (need like 2 inches +) so I sat down and carefully used a razor to stripe the insulation so I can solder on some nice new cable and make a sweet looking loom.

050.JPG

Will see if I enjoy doing this and contemplate doing the engine harness ahaha

 

Today my mate came over to help strip a bit more stuff and he brang some paint pens so we could paint what I wanted on these fuse box covers, gotta find mums labeller to make new labels now, then probably clearcoat over top but I was also thinking the school book style clear sticky would be cool too?055.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:wheelchair:

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Wow you move fast.. hope you get this done. Seems like you got a good streak at what you want, Ill be keeping an eye out for the finished product smile.png

 

Thanks a lot man yeah I'm getting keener to finish every week haha

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Have been flat out doing shit for weeks now, work related and just an influx of random stuff to do like setting up bank accnts for my mum and yeah personal shit.

No time for anything ):

Gathered a few more parts and have only done a tiny amount of work on the car.

What I have got to, is getting all of the body loom out, all cables are in the driver 1m3 area of interior ready to be pulled through the last 2 holes(firewall driver side and front of fender wiring holes)

 

I brought the 'engine' home today (head, block, sump, rotating assy and bunch of random stuff like oil pickup, pumps [oil, water,] tensioners, idlers rear main seal etc.) So I'll be cleaning up the garage which my family will love as it is full of boxes still from moving house. So that I can put my engine right in the middle and do stuff on it, you'll see what I mean later because basically my procedure is unbolt/obtain a part, fix if it needs it, clean it and paint it. Thing is it applies to everything, hahah

 

Anyways once again this is just a "I'll update you guys soon"

 

My oldest (longest time) mate just got an s13 the other day :quagmire: so he's keen to come to the yard all the time and fix his own shit/be inclined to give me a hand with heavy lifting ;)

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Ey, here's the next update, like I said no actual work.. Just buying stuff to be honest.

I have moved my engine home and can see already it'll make it get done a lot quicker, it being in front of me all the time haha.

 

Here's the paint

003.JPG

I got for all the engine parts/random stuff I paint like clutch pedal and slave I bought for $40

(Cleaned it up today will paint when I get a few more items ready because I'll use the spray gun for painting now)

 

Intercooler I snagged for $30!

011.JPG

Cons are that on the right you can see it's had a bang, was welded and apparently he pressure tested it. Don't know if I believe but whatever, will make a cool wall or ceiling ornament later if it's too broken. It's also slightly twisted/warped from the hit but I don't mind if it doesn't mount perfect. Rolin Imports brand as well, 3 inch thick, 3 inch outlets.

 

The Bride Zeta seat I got,

013.JPG

rails are off and to be cleaned/painted. the middle fabric is pulled down, i'm gonna wash it in cold soapy water and let it air dry just to be fresh. The fibreglass has been painted nice satin black, i seen the sticker as I was spraying and hit it accidentally haha, might try carefully use thinners and get it off since he claimed it's genuine. You can see on the left side the damage it has, i'll think about what I can do about it to have the best aesthetic result.

 

 

012.JPG

The dash foam, it's stripped and not sure if I posted the finish result picture. Found 2 bags of 50Gr black flocking powder for $30 + shipping which I guess is a good price, anyone know of cheaper or a nice site for it? Arts and crafts store I don't mind haha

 

Here's the dohc rb30

008.JPG

I even degreased and cleaned the wheel it's sitting on, haha. There's cardboard under too in case any oil drips but it's pretty dry (just coated)

Valve covers are half sanded, the exhaust one will not sit in line with studs... Is it wrong or does everyone hammer in the baffle drain a little? I haven't banged it yet but I figure it'll be fine. (About 1/3 of the hole will be inwards, so 2/3 flow, and there's 2 drains) Maybe I should post a photo of what I mean. What the baffle fouls on is the cam cover baffle at the rear. I was told the covers are series 2 r33 rb25 covers which is what I was told the head is.

The head said "75T 5" If anyone knows before I google it.

 

009.JPG

Straight six powahh

 

010.JPG

Photo of the cams if anyones interested. They are stock vct items reground to suit the head work

The inner (not the end, right hand side one) brass coloured baffle/cam cover thing is what fouls on the exhaust cam cover.

The inlet cover lines up perfect

 

007.JPG

Other side. What's the name of the water tee things on the front (just behind thermostat housing) and the rear? They're pretty bad cond so I'll chuck on new ones. CAN'T WAIT TO GET RID OF THE UGLY BLOCK BLUE

 

006.JPG

The RB30 sump, crank holder thing (really should know what it is haha,) old and new water pumps, RB30 harmonic balancer, 3 ancillary brackets (will figure them out,) RB30 oil pump, rod caps, cam belt idler and tensioner, some kind of RB30 sender which I will look up, and all the RB30 studs, nuts and bolts.

Will be going ARP pretty much everything, except in and ex studs. My olld (long time) mate works (dad owns) at a bolt shop and he keeps offering me to build the car with all stainless bolts haha, so I really should do that while I have the chance. Gotta get a DOHC oil pump, another tensioner and start biting the bullet to save for forgies and rb25 box.

 

005.JPG

and the RB30 crank which I thiiink may be f**ked. There's some kind of hole in it with metal that is finger-strength pliable around the opening of said hole (on one of the middle lobes) ): The front and rear seals have eaten at it about .75mm as well so the cost of sleeving maybe be more than finding myself a low km/good cond RB30 crank. Will post close ups of the crank and ex cam cover inside in a second I'll take photos even though it's 3:51am \:

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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OK Here's the ex cover not lining up

017.JPG

Green is OK, red is :c

 

Doesn't fit due to this contact

014.JPG

 

My idea... haha

014 - Copy.JPG

Hammer in the red triangle area

Should I pry out the remaining opening a bit more to compensate?

 

The culprit

016.JPG

 

 

And for the crank, here's one side

020.JPG

 

and the other, more worn side

021.JPG

 

Here is my concern on the crank, are these holes normal or very bad?

022.JPG

Much better close up

023.JPG

 

 

Cheers guys

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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As mentioned earlier, you certainly don't waste any time!

 

Keep up the good work!!

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Hammering the rocker cover pressure baffle should be fine if you're careful. I can't say that I've dealt with RB25 cranks before, but I don't remember those machined divots on SR cranks. I wouldn't necessarily be too worried, as they look very deliberate. Take the crank for a crack test and machine, as your biggest roadblock would be a cracked crank. Those divots could be easily offset in a balance, if they aren't in fact there from the last time it was balanced.

 

Edit: having looked at the photo full size, I'm not so sure what to make of those divots/holes. Just take it to a crank shop and let them give you their feedback.

Edited by pmod

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As mentioned earlier, you certainly don't waste any time!

 

Keep up the good work!!

haha cheers I hope to be moving even faster soon!

Hammering the rocker cover pressure baffle should be fine if you're careful. I can't say that I've dealt with RB25 cranks before, but I don't remember those machined divots on SR cranks. I wouldn't necessarily be too worried, as they look very deliberate. Take the crank for a crack test and machine, as your biggest roadblock would be a cracked crank. Those divots could be easily offset in a balance, if they aren't in fact there from the last time it was balanced.

 

Edit: having looked at the photo full size, I'm not so sure what to make of those divots/holes. Just take it to a crank shop and let them give you their feedback.

 

Cheers pmod, if you take another look at the holes, the bottom one you can see a slight tab, which is very flexible and pliable, the edge of the hole

that's what gives me the concern but yeah like you said the most likely people to know would be crank people.. Will look into this as I need to find a machine shop to bleed me dry \:

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For what it's worth the crank holder thing is the girdle which includes the main caps.

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For what it's worth the crank holder thing is the girdle which includes the main caps.

 

Thanks I had a feeling it was the 'girdle' I've heard of haha

I was on the deep Nissan engine manuals last night and it referred to it as the Main Cap holder

 

Girdle sounds best and makes sense cheers man

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